TVS Jupiter Vs Kunzum Pass

"When the going gets tough, the tough gets going" 
- Knute Rockne 

Introduction:

Chitkul was long pending since more than five years on my ‘places to do list’. I haven’t been to Manali and Ladakh just because I wanted to complete the Spiti Circuit. There had been numerous instances when people asked “itna ghumte ho, Manali nhi gaye abhi tak?” (You travel a lot, haven’t you been to Manali yet?). I used to say “No I haven’t but I plan to”. The Spiti Circuit was the only reason Manali was pending for so long. The 1800 km ‘Delhi–Shimla–Kaza–Manali–Delhi ‘ circuit is holy grail of bikers and is also known to be one of the world’s most treacherous roads. The scenic beauty and generous hosts of remote villages of Spiti Valley are unparalleled. You’re above the altitude of 9000 ft during most of the ride.  Sounds adventurous! Wait.. how about riding the circuit on a 110 CC Scooty??

Inspired by our trans Himalayan Scooterist Master Jii Narender Kumar Gautam; Here I present an adventurous Endeavour “TVS Jupiter Vs Kunzum Pass”

Rivers you ride along:
Narkanda  - Luan 56 KM to ride along SUTLEJ
Luan  - Karcham 122 km along SUTLEJ
Karcham - Chitkul - Karcham 41 + 41 KM along BASPA
Karcham - Khab 86 KM ride along SUTLEJ  (TOTAL 314 KM)
Khab - Nako - Sumdo 17 KM along SPITI
Sumdo - Kunzum Pass 74 KM along SPITI (TOTAL 91 KM)
Batal  - Gamphu 48 KM along CHENAB
Manali -  Mandi 118 KM along BEAS RIVER. Cross PARVATI RIVER
Sadwan - Manman- SUTLEJ 30 km

About the place:

Since most of the ride is through Spiti Valley, let us restrict this ‘about the place’ section to Spiti only. However, I’ll cover all chapter wise. The Spiti Valley is a high altitude cold desert mountain valley located in the Himalayas in Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. The name Spiti mean ‘the middle land’, i.e. the land between Tibet and India. The road to Spiti remains open round the year. Due to high elevation, some are likely to feel altitude sickness in Spiti. You ride along the Sutlej and Spiti River. Huge mountain rise to very high elevations on either sides of the Spiti River. The mountains are barren and largely devoid of a vegetative cover.  

Altitude from sea level: 3800 m

How to reach: Spiti Valley is accessible throughout year via Kinnaur from Shimla route on a difficult 412 km long road. Tourists from outside India need inner line permits to enter Spiti through Kinnaur. In summer it can be reached via Manali through Rohtang pass and Kunzum pass. Manali is about 200 km away from Kaza, headquarter of Spiti. Public transport is very sparse mostly limited to only one bus a day. Hence, it is highly recommended to have your own vehicle preferably a bike.

Best time to Visit: Throughout the year!

Brief Itinerary:

Day 1: Qualifying test - The Hatu Peak

Sunday, 11th June, 2017 Leave at 4:30 am, reach Hatu Peak, Narkanda at 5:30 pm, overnight stay at Narkanda.

Day 2: Steep ascend of Sangla

Monday, 12th June,2017 Leave for Chitkul at 9:00 am, reach Chitkul at 7:10 pm, overnight camping  at Chitkul.

Day 3: Will it run out of breath at 12000 ft?

Tuesday, 13th June,2017 Leave for Nako at 9 am. Reach Nako Monastery at 8:30 pm. Overnight camping at Nako Monastery.

Day 4: Fuel capacity Vs 200 Km

Wednesday, 14th June,2015 Leave for Kaza at 9:15 am. Reach Kaza at 6 pm. Overnight stay at The Spiti Junction Homestay, Khurik village 13 km ahead of Kaza.

Day 5: TVS Jupiter Vs Kunzum Pass - Boulders and Scooter

Thursday, June 15^th 2017, Leave for Kunzum Pass and Chhatru at 9:30 am. Reach Chhatru at 6:30 pm. Overnight camping at Chhatru.

Day 6 and 7: The Marathon

Friday, June 16^th,2017 Leave for Rohtang top, Manali and if possible, reach Delhi overnight. Saturday, June 17^th,2017. Dwarka, Delhi at 10 am.

Expenses:           Fuel INR 2850.00 per traveler

                                Accomodation: INR 600.00 per traveler

                                Meals: INR 550.00 per traveler

                                Misc: INR 200.00

Total Cost per traveler: INR 4200.00.

NOTE: The super low cost trip is all a result of camping and self cooking.

Back to travelogue:

It was last week of May when Sardar Malkeet Singh asked me to plan a week long trip to the Himalayas. He was keen to do the Kheerganga trek and visit Manikaran Saheb. I was also excited about the plan but 4-5 days are enough for Kheerganga. “If it is for a week, let’s plan for the Spiti Circuit” I said. Malkeet has never heard about the place Kaza and says “What this is, where it is and how the place is?” I assured him not to worry and we can plan Kheerganga next time. Initially he resisted but when I sent some pics of Spiti Valley and the route, he agreed immediately. The departure date was fixed to June 11^th 2017. Initially, I planned to pillion ride Malkeet’s 125 cc Super Splendor but our camping gear only weighed more than 15 kg and occupied the pillion seat on Super Splendor. I had this insane thought of riding my 2 year old 110 cc TVS Jupiter. Even though I was skeptical about the suspension and fuel capacity of a scooty for one of the world’s most treacherous roads, I made my mind to face it. The quick calculation of mileage gave an idea that I’ll have to refuel the scooty at almost every fuel station once I reach Shimla. Anyways, “Jo hoga dekha jayega” (Let us face that comes)…

The Hatu Peak

NOTE: Contact Roshan 9816577991 for Dormitory at Narkanda.

Day – 2 Steep ascend of Sangla. Qulifiying test 2 - ‘How far it can go?’

Narkanda – Chitkul

We left for Chitkul at 9:15 am. You’ll have to take left U turn right after Narkanda bust stop to head towards Rampur. 

Ride along Sutlej

The iconic 'Great Cliff tunnel' of Kinnaur

The great 'cliff tunnel' of Kinnaur

Sangla Valley

Sangla Valley

Chitkul is about 40 km from the Karchham Dam at Rakcham. The ride from Rakchham dam to Chitkul is steep ascend and takes you through the Sangla Valley. You’ll have to stop at checkpost entry Just after crossing Sangla to enter Chitkul at is near China border. We asked villager for permission to pitch our tent in the fields and they welcomed. Camping at Chitkul is one of the most serene experiences you can have surrounded by Snow clad mountains and glaciers.

Camping at Chitkul

Day 3: Will it run out of breath at 12000 ft?

Chitkul – Nako

We left at 9:40 am to reach Tabo by evening 7 pm but two Israeli guys had a flat rear tyre and we stopped there to help them as Malkeet had tyre puncture kit. Although they had all the tools it took about 2 hours to fix the flat tyre. We then moved towards our destination and they were going to Pangi Valley.

Soon we reached Spillow. From here onwards, you see these words from BRO. I salute and respect our Indian Army's BRO (Border Roads Organisation). There were stretches where the roads was black carpet instead and we could ride at 60 km/hr, thanks to BRO.

With all due respect, if BRO weren't there, himalayan travels would have been limited to numerous 'Queen of Hills'. It’s strange and unfortunate that most of us visiting these 'land of Gods' forget to mention men who made this possible and Actually are Gods to the 'People of land of Gods'.

"Come What may, BRO Accomplishes assigned Tasks"
- Indian Army's BRO

And the best one!........

Yes, they are number One!
Who else can claim Highest Motorable Roads in the WORLD 👍

I planned to camp near Nako Monastery but it was already 7 pm and we still had to cover more than 25 kms.. Unfortunately, I missed capturing the ‘Kazigs’ a steep zig-zag ride right after the Spiti - Sutlej confluence that takes you to the top of the plateau. We reached Nako at 8:30 pm and asked for permission to pitch our tent under the blessings of his holiness at Nako Monastery.

"I was Born into the world as the King of Truth for the Salvation of the World." - Lord Buddha

Day 4: Fuel capacity Vs 200 Km

Nako – Kaza

The next morning we met ‘Paul Mahadev’ from Australia. Mr. Paul Joseph Drielsm lives in India since the 80’s and he has to visit his home country every six months to get his Visa renewed. We had a quick look of Nako lake and left for Kaza.

Nako Lake

But this time, I was worried about the fuel capacity of TVS Jupiter as there isn’t any fuel station between Karchham Dam and Kaza. Although I had kept a 2 liter stock but I was skeptical if it would suffice for this barren stretch of more than 200 km. Anyways, there wasn’t an alternative and we kept riding towards Kaza.

"... I'm running short of time to reach Kaza by sunset but these spellbinding views are committed to eat my time... "

The Ka Loops near Nako

After about 35 km from Nako, you reach Sumdo. Sumdo is the border of Kinnaur and Spiti. Welcome to Spiti!

"Kaza kab aayega?"
This is helpful... distances from Sumdo.

We reached TABO at 1 pm. Tabo is certainly most beautiful and well planned  village in the entire Spiti Valley. 

Elements...

Surprisingly, TVS Jupiter ran out of fuel just 25 km short of Kaza and the 2 liter stock was more than enough. We reached Kaza at 5:30 and asked for a hotel but Kaza is hell of a busy vantage point. So crowded that it feels like you’re at Chandni Chowk of Delhi. Fortunately we didn’t find a hotel and we had to keep riding to nearby villages for a homestay. We were the luckiest people to not to find a hotel at Kaza and got homestay at this beautiful village of Khurik, 13 km ahead of Kaza.

I do not intend to advertise a hotel but I would like to advocate this Homestay at Kurik Village near Kaza. 'THE SPITI JUNCTION HOMESTAY' certainly isn't a commercial hotel and you're treated as family guest. I asked the home owner Kalzang Namgial for why he didn't even asked for my ID. He replied that he do not want to make guests feel like customer. Further, he said, I just want people coming to Spiti experience Spiti tradition and Culture in its true sense and colours. He walked me to the prayer room, dining hall and his crop fields. To my surprise, Kalzang is a graduate from Delhi University's North Campus but he is content with the life in this high altitude desert just because he's working hard for the welfare of this small village of Kurik.


I strongly recommend everyone visiting Kaza to stay at Kurik instead. I can go on writing thousands of words for this place and my experience there but let the pics say it all....
Key Monastery can be seen right from the window.
His contact number: 9418783797 Kalzang Namgial

The Spiti Junction Homestay at Khurik

Room at Spiti Junction Homestay

The prayer room

The traditional Dining hall at Spiti Junction Homestay

Key Monastery

Day 5: TVS Jupiter Vs Kunzum Pass - Boulders and Scooter

As usual, we left at 9 am and reached the village of Losar at 12:15 pm. Losar is at an altitude of 13400 ft.

Somewhere between Losar to Kunzum Pass, you come across these grasslands of Spiti and it feels like staying there forever....

Wetlands of Spiti

To the front, to the rear.. Snow clad mountains everywhere!

 Almost there………

"Do I really need a Signboard to ruin it with Stickers and Mark my presence??"

I forgot to click this at Kunzum Top.
It was after few kms downhill only when I realised I'm missing a shot.. and here it is..

[Officially} at 4260 m from sea level

The real test for any of the vehicle and your riding/driving skills begins right after the Kunzum pass.

"... Saanu sauda nhi pugg da,
Ravi ton Chanab puchh da..
Ki haal hai Satluj da?? ..."

"... this Deal doesn't meet the purpose where Chenab has to ask Ravi, How Sutlej is doing? ..."

Sorrow of Punjab on Partition narrated in just two lines. Rivers originating from same region are separated to such an extent that one (Chenab) needs a mediator (Ravi) to know how abouts of the other (Sutlej)

Just after you have descended from the Kunzum Top, you join the 'romance' of Chenab. This is where I actually understood the meaning of these words from Gurdas Maan Saab.

"... In these muddy waters are the stories and legends of four tragic romances of Punjab.

Sassi-Punnu of Baloch and Bhambore;
Sohni-Mahiwal of Gujjarat and Bukhara;
Mirza-Sahiba of Danabad and Sial and
Heer-Ranjha of Jhang and Takht Hazara; all flourished on the banks of Chenab. These moon waters hold secrets of love flowed throughout the centuries..."

#RomanceOfChenab

Batal to Chhatru is nothing but River bed to ride on; giving you the opportunity to unfold some secrets [within]

The #RomanceOfChenab

These waters have an invisible Aura of romance. Its on the banks of Chenab where Ranjha first met Heer; Its these waters of Chenab where Sassi was thrown into as a new born child; Its these waters where Sohni drowned while swimming to meet Mahiwal; Its on the plains of Chenab where story of Mirza-Sahiba blossomed. What inspired them??

Answer is far more transcendence.
The invisible Aura of Romance comes from her other name 'ChandraBhaga'.
Chandrabhaga is really borne out of love. It is said that the daughter of the moon ‘Chandra’ and the son of the Sun God ‘Bhaga’ fell in love and decided to take a long walk circumambulating the holy mountains of ‘Lahaul’. After many a meandering course they fell into an eternal embrace in their togetherness at Tandi, Himachal to give rise to ‘Chandrabhaga’; named Chenab 'the moon river' in Punjab.

#RomanceOfChenab

The ride between Kunzum Top and Manali is extreme off road and a ride of lifetime to live a life along the 'Moonwaters'. You have to be there.

The stretch from Batal to Chhatru is nothing but river bed to ride on. However, this is the most scenic stretch of the entire circuit that surpasses beauty of any of the destinations we had been during this trip. Unfortunately, we had to skip Chandratal due to time constraint. We reached Chhatru at 6:45 PM and began looking for a campsite. We pitched our tent near the Chenab river.

Sardaar Malkeet Singh making Pulao for dinner at Chhatru

Next morning, we left at 9:50 am and the nallahs didn’t cause much problem as the glaciers were yet to melt and release the fury of water
We reached Rohtang top at 12 pm. From Rohtang top to Delhi, it was almost a non-stop ride and we reached Dwarka, Delhi next morning at 10:30 am.

By now, I had lived my dream of riding the Delhi – Shimla – Kinnaur – Kaza – Manali  - Delhi circuit. J

Me.

Keep Travelling!!