Triund - Camping at in front of the great Edifice of Dhauladhar range.

Solo Traveler at Snowcovered Triund


Introduction: For few months I was craving for a Solo travel and to get lost into the wild. To keep the adventure essence, I kept it entirely unplanned right from leaving home. And within 13+5 hrs of travel+trekking, I am here, facing the great snow covered Edifice.



I could not choose one out of two Title for the post, hence you see both.

About the place: If you ever dreamt or had a dream of being so close to a huge snow covered mountain that you feel like touching it with a stretch of your hand then this is the place to be at.
Triund is a camping ground facing the Great Edifice of Dhauladhar range of outer Himalayas. The trail to Triund starts from Galu Devi temple above Dharamkot village, McLeodGanj near Dharamshala.

Altitude from sea level: 2825m

How to reach: Delhi-Kangra-Dharamshala via NH1 or direct bus from Delhi to Dharamshala
                        Dharamshala to McLeodGanj 10 km.
                        McLeod Ganj main market to Galu Devi temple at Upper Dharamkot | 2 km | 1-2 hour walk                         OR a 45-minute cab ride
                        Galu Devi temple to Triund |4 km |3.5 hrs walk

Best time to Visit: December last to January 1st week. Closed after January first/2nd week due to heavy snow.

Brief Itinerary:
Day 1: Sunday 27 December,2015 leave Dwarka,Delhi at 3:40 pm and take bus
                           to Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh at 5:30 pm.
Day2: Monday 28 December,2015. Reach Dharamshala at 05:30 am take taxi to McCleodganj. Begin                                    trekking to Triund. Camping at Triund.
Day3: Tuesday 29 December,2015 Back to Delhi.

Expenses: To and fro bus ticket Delhi-Dharamshala INR 550+550 = 1100.00
                   Taxi from Dharamshala-McCleodGanj-GoluDevi Temple INR 650.00
                   Bust from McCleodGanj to Dharamshala Bust Terminal INR 15.00
                   Meals and BreakFast  INR 550.00
Entire trip cost INR 2315.00 only.

Back to travelogue:
It had only been around 15 days since my last bike ride to Chakrata, Uttarakhand but for some reasons unknown, I was craving for a Solo travel and to get lost into the wild. The problem was, as usual, I was unable to zero out on a destination and a plan. Therefore, decided not to have a plan, just leave home and board the first bus leaving for hills, preferably snow covered.

I left at around 3:40 pm for Dwarka Mor Metro station. Boarded the first metro train that came into site. I was still confused and had two options, either de-board at ISBT Kashmiri Gate or Anand Vihar. Mostly, Buses plying East of NH58 leave from Anand Vihar ISBT (Nainital, Munsiyari, Pithoragarh, Ramnagar) and that of West of NH58 from Kashmiri Gate (Himachal, Haridwar, Rishikesh)this I only came to know when I asked ticket to Pithoragarh at Kashmiri Gate ISBT. I had a look at the route map of metro and found Kashmiri Gate comes first and hence, chose it. The moment you enter the ISBT, thanks to the dramatically improved infrastructure, you do not feel to look for someone for bus info. I saw there were state specific counters and you can head directly towards the counter of state you wish to travel. Went to the Uttarakhand ticket counter and asked for ticket to Pithoragarh. The man at the ticket counter advised me that bus to Pithoragarh can be boarded from Anand Vihar only. I shifted to Himachal ticket counter and asked for Reckong Peo, I saw a direct bus from Delhi to remote Reckong Peo when I travelled to Narkanda via shimla last year. Unfortunately he told me that the bus route to Reckong Peo is closed for the day due to heavy snow. Now, here I got the privilege of traveling solo and unplanned, I asked him for McCleodganj and yes I got my ticket for INR 548.00 only, that gives mileage of Re 1.00 per km as McLeodganj is around 550 kms from Delhi, the bus was scheduled to leave at 5:30 pm.
ticket to lonely woods


I had around half an hour to wait for the bus, had tea, a quick walk round the ISBT to have an overview of the destinations covered by buses plying from this Terminus.
I boarded the bus and being solo, felt this paradox of being excited but with great peace within. The bus left at 5:30 pm.

It was an overnight journey and the bus reached Dharamshala bus Terminal at 05:40 AM and it was still dark and the only source of light was earth’s natural satellite. Unfortunately there was no local transport at this hour in the morning to McLeodganj, I had to take a private taxi that charged me INR250.00 for Dharamshala to McLeodganj 10 kms only L. This was the moment when I got the majestic glimpse of white moonlit the Dhauladhar peak and to express in the simplest way, the range looked like a huge tubelight wall owing to the reflected moonlight on snow covered peaks.

Moonlit Dhauladhar range

 I had a tea with Tibetan Bread INR 10.00 only and asked the Tibet boy for the way to trek to Triund. He advised me not to leave in dark as monkeys may trouble me till Dharamkot. I really do know that monkeys are indeed troublesome, especially with someone wearing spectacles. Therefore I opted for taxi till Galu Devi Temple, Fare INR 400.00 for 8.5 kms L. The difference, trek from McLeodGanj Market to DharamKot village is 1.8 Km, Dharamkot to Galu Devi Temple 3 km and by road, it is around 10 km and takes around 40 minutes. I reached Galu Devi Temple, the last road head to trek to Triund, at 6:40 am and it was still dark. Fortunately, within five minutes I saw another taxi, these were three guys from, yes, Delhi. I asked for their company and we began trekking. But I could not keep up with them, they seemed to be in hurry and were not interested in enjoying the nature and views of the valley. Thanks to them as from now onwards only I realized what it meant to be a solo trekker and on your own. The trek not a paved one and is raw and steep throughout the 4.5 km. After trekking for nearly 1 km, came across this memorial,


when I came home I googled a lot and could not find much about Mr. Prag Bhaskar but really felt low may he rest in peace and his soul inspire trekkers.

Since I was all alone, I was very well aware of the fact that I am walking through core jungle and it is not safe to walk without making any noise. I turned my all time favorite Babbu Maan songs on and kept enjoying the serenity.


The three stair: McLeodGanj, Dharamshala and Kangra valley


At some places, the trek looks really unsafe, one can see huge boulders hanging off the cliff waiting to be triggered.



After walking around 2 km you see this Magic View, says the oldest tea shop.


One can also spot Ravens; species just above Crow and spotting one confirms that you are moving on and in the right path and direction. 
The last 1km trek to Triund is tricky and a bit unsafe during these days of the year due to black ice. It really thrills being trying to avoid falling into 7000 feet deep gorge by inches especially when you are all alone.
And after a strenuous 4 hr trek I reached from Here



To here:







The moment you face the Great Edifice all your efforts and every steep step you take uphill proves worth to its 100% efficacy.
I camped here, and asked for way towards Laka Glacier around 3 km trek from Triund. Finding the way to Glacier will not be any difficult as there are directions marked every now and then but trekking the path is.
you can spot the yellow direction arrow at bottom


After walking around 1.5km the trek goes too narrow and layer of snow too thick upto 2 feet.
One thing I would suggest to every trekker to always keep in mind that one has to trek the same path downhill and there is a whole lot of difference trekking up and downhill. It is not like if somehow I make it uphill then it will be easy to trek down.  Its more unsafe and difficult to trek downhill on a snow covered trek. Therefore, keeping this in mind, the moment you feel unsafe beyond a certain point, turn around and leave it for next time with better luck in hand instead of being last time. In short, do not push it beyond the safe limits.
I turned back from the unsafe zone as you may never know what and what not lies beneath the snow, latter being dangerous as you may end up stepping on air beneath snow.
the point where I turned back is beneath that rock that makes the trek too narrow and unsafe

Came back to Triund had bread omlette and tea cost INR 80.00 and 40.00 respectively. While trekking downhill, met another solo traveler Mehul Choudhary and to my surprise, he is also from Delhi and a photography apprentice.   He planned to travel to Solan, Manali next morning, hence we farewell and I left for Dharamshala for bus to Delhi.

I am craving to experience this and will for sure come again soon to complete the incomplete trek to Laka Glacier. Triund is a must visit place in Himalayas suggested at mustvisithimalayas.

Keep Travelling!

Chakrata – Where even military March Pass doesn’t breaks the Serenity of the place!

Just 50 kms into the hills and you are in a perfect n absolute wilderness!!





At first sight, it just looks another trip to one of the renowned hill stations in the Himalayas. But, this actually was a timed test for my 2003 Honda City Gxi to Graduate from plains to cruze into the Hills.




About the place:


Chakrata is a cantonment town in Dehradun district in the state of Uttarakhand, India.

It is situated between the Tons and Yamuna rivers, at an elevation of 7000–7250 feet

The area is known as Jaunsar-Bawar, belonging to the Jaunsari tribe famous for their BlackMagic (kindly ignore). Chakrata is an access-restricted military cantonment, and foreigners face severe restrictions in visiting. Notably, it is the permanent garrison of the secretive and elite Special Frontier Force, also known as Establishment 22 ( called "Two-Two"), the only ethnic Tibetan unit of the Indian Army, which was raised after the Indo-China War of 1962. Various kinds of weapons and survival training is also imparted by R&AW and other intelligence services in Chakrata.

Altitude from sea level:  2,118 m
How to reach: Chakrata is around 380 km from Delhi via Ponta Sahib and can be reached from Dehradun via Mussoorie or Vikasnagar. Both routes pass through beautiful mountainous road. Traveling in the monsoon can be quite tricky as the area sees frequent road blockages due to landslides.

Best time to Visit: January – April, though, Chakrata’s easy accessibility makes it ideal to visit throughout the year!

Brief Itinerary:
Day1: Saturday 4th April,2015 Leave Gurgaon at 4 am. Reached Chakrata at 5 pm
Day2: Sunday 5th April,2015 early morning visit to Gurudwara, Camping at TigerFall. Leave for Delhi@5pm
Day3: Home at 3 am, Monday.
Budget: INR 2700/- per traveller
Back to travelogue:
Every time I have a get together with friends, I use to talk about visiting the much heard less known Chakrata. This time, we four, Maneet Singh, Parvinder Mehra (me), Pratap Singh and Teertha Choudhary from Genpact were determined to do it on first week of april,2015. I simply hit the Gas pedal at 4am in the morning heading onto the Grand Trunk Road, a truly driving delight. To our badluck, all the wine shops in Gurgaon that used to be open 24*7*365 were closed L and hence we could not have the real party element till Karnal BEER. Luckily, I had a Blender’s Pride, my all time favourite.
 One thing I would like to mention is, from the very beginning of this trip, we chose an anthem song to play every now and then..
The Track.. Bohemia  ..
 Jado Nikle PATOLA banke, Mitran di Jaan Te Bane…… ni Mitran di Jaan  Te baNe……
It was drizzling in the morning to add to the awesomeness. The beauty is being fed to full at a Sonipat fuel station.





Chardi jawani tera, gora gora rang ni
Gora gora rang kare mitra nu tang ni

Driving directions- take right from Karnal.


Gori veeni vich
Ni gori veeni vich kali wang chanke
Ni mitra di jaan te bane
At Karnal – Vikasnagar road, you have to have a meal at Sneham Restaurant. Its about 40 km from the right turn you take from GT road.



Once you have a meal here, you will be thankful to me for writing this recommendation.
The Yamuna river Canal is a good spot to rest and give rest to your eyes for around 15-20 minutes.





Jado nikle haaye ni jado nikle
Jado nikle patola ban ke mitra di jaan te bane

Road condition from Delhi to Chakrata doesn’t bother you at any single moment throughout the journey!

Kashmir toh leke Punjab me tu patle
Munde Multan de
Tere kaale suit paan ke
Ban than ke aayi, bani mitran di jaan te

We reached ……… (Unknown) and had a tea break at this scenic rest point, recommended to everyone who visits chakrata.



Kala suit kala til mikhde te jachda
Nazar na lagge tenu
Bacha ke billo rakh da......
As soon as we reached Chakrata...

Ishare karde nishani wale manke
Mitra di jaan te bane

...we, to our surprise, were driving into the clouds. Yes, literally, we were into the clouds. Here are some pics..



We searched for a room and found one for INR1600/- that goes INR400/- per person.



We got outside the room to explore the local market and were delighted to see that military apparels and accessories were available at a throw away price. Here are some useful souvenirs from Chakrata:

Military Boots helpful to walk on Black Ice



Military water bottle for survival in jungle
  
We had muttonicious dinner at Sher-e-punjab.



Chakrata has its own delicacies is this is one of them.. 'Mutton Fires'!!!

And went to sleep for early morning trekking.

Next morning we went to Gurudwara to seek some blessings. Being Indian and Delhiite, we had 'Garam garam Chai Pakoda at Chakrata market and then headed towards DevBan. Unfortunately, road to Devban is not Sedan friendly and hence we took U-turn towards TigerFall.






For this only reason, I will be visiting Chakrata on bike in the first week of next month i.e., May 2015.

Road to Tiger Fall is not in a good condition but is doable by any car.





Google de wangu tere lagdi aa hike ni
Facebook wangu ohnu karda main like ni


 Enroute to tiger fall a local asked for lift. There is no harm from strangers in whole of the uttarakhand region unlike NCR. Pratap singh, for a laugh, asked the local why it is call TigerFall, do Tigers keep falling from it??? :D. The villager replied no, its due to its roaring sound.

Poke roz mera
Ni poke roz mera top utte tanke
Mitra di jaan te bane


And then the only thing the villager had to talk was Potatoes grown in his fields, Aloo, Aalooo, aur bas Aaalooo, I was about rename my trip to Aaluaata trip instead of Chakrata. The moment we reached to the last motorable point towards Tiger Fall, these native children came to be our guide. We could not refuse the offer.





 TigerFall is a sight to behold.


Tiger Fall (background)

We did camping right near tiger fall









and at five, we left for Delhi. We did not forget Sneham restaurant on Karnal road.

Jive agg vicho nikal da vey shola
Penda rola jado bann ke tu nikle patola
Seena khola laho dola
Tenu dil diya gallan bola
kare jee mera
Par sorry main ki tera
Lagda bangi ve tere te
Akhan main sari raat
Hun lagda hun kudiya nu lagda main aadmi tera

Sun ja main choti dassa
Si dassa main aaj vi tere te attka
Par mainu lagda milna saath nahi tera
ke aaj tere ban 'na main
Sajna ve tera sajda karna, saath deyi mera
Reached Delhi at 3 am Monday.

Will be back in may first week on bike. Till then, good bye chakrata.

KeEp TraVelLing!!!


Chakrata 3.0
Revisit December 4th, 2015 - finally, did Deoban and Budher.

                                                                                                         

Naag Tibba – Where Nothing becomes Everything

Delhi to Naag Tibba – Two travelers on a 125cc Hero Super Splendor with a two person camping Tent for self sustenance in wilderness.

What else can I wish........



“Bhai yeh rasta thik to hai, kahin hum galat to nhi jaa rahe, andhera bhi hone wala hai, yahin kahin jagah dekh k tent laga lete hain. Koi banda dikh jaye to confirm ho jayega k hum sahi jaa rahe hain.”
(Are we moving in the right direction, its almost dark, lets find a place right here and mount our tent instead of keep moving. We can confirm the right direction/path if somehow somebody shows up. )
These were the words from worried Sanjay as we did not find any sign of settlement for about 2 hours of continuous walk towards the Naag Tibba base camp. Also, this was his first ever trekking experience in the Himalayas.



About the placeNag Tibba ('Serpent's Peak'), is the highest peak in the lesser himalayan region of Uttarakhand state (Garhwal Division). It is situated 16 km (9.9 mi) away from Landour cantonment, and around 57 km from Mussoorie in Tehri Garhwal region of Uttarakhand.

Altitude from sea level: ~ 3050 mtrs

How to reach:  Best route is Delhi-Karnal-Yamunanagar-Ponta Saheb-YamunaBridge-PantwariVillage-ask for the last motorable road towards Naag Tibba-6.5 km trek to the base camp-3km trek to NaagTibba peak.
Best time to Visit: January – February, September - November

Brief Itinerary:
Saturday, February 17th 2015: leave Dwarka, Delhi at 1145 hrs. for Dehradun
                                                  Reach Dehradun at 1900 hrs. overnight stay at a guest house at                                                               Dehradun
Sunday, February 18, 2015: leave Dehradun at 0800 hrs, reach Pantwari at 1300 hrs.
                                              Trek to Naag Tibba base camp. Overnight camping and bonfire.
Monday, February 19, 2015: Trek down to the parked vehicle (Bike) leave for Delhi.
                                                Delhi (Home) at 0215 hrs.

Budget: INR 1450/- per traveler (with your own camping tent and equipments)


Back to travelogue:
After being astonished by the impeccable beauty of various treks in Himalayas, I was looking for a trek in the Himalayas that would take me at an altitude of 3000m (from sea level) strictly limited to be termed as weekend trip. Googled like hell and found this place – NaagTibba, less than 400km from Delhi and takes you to a respectable altitude of 3000m above sea level.
My office hours are that of graveyard shift and hence we left for Mussourie at around 12pm on Saturday February 17th and the route selected was Delhi-Ghaziabad-Meerut bypass-Mujaffarnagar-Dehradun-Mussurie. Although we intend to reach mussourie by dark, but we could only make it to Dehradun at around 8 pm. We searched for an affordable accommodation and found one for INR 400/- only. After office hours at night and a 200 km ride, I had to have a good sleep. Hence, without wasting any time, we took shower and had ‘little little’ of Rum and went to much desired deep sleep.
Next morning, we woke up  at 7:30 am, and left for Pantwari village, last motorable point. We had tea and paranthas at Kempty Fall, Mussourie, which looked like an abandoned market place in the month of February. I have had heard about the fish rice at Yamuna bridge after Kempty fall and we gave it a try. Surprised to see that fish was served with fins, no matter, it was really tasty.

Sanjay enjoying fish rice at Yamuna bridge


Pantwari is about 45 kms from Yamuna bridge.
Important: once you reach Pantwari village, ask for the last motorable road towards Naag Tibba, it is about 9 km where the dead end comes and you will have to park your vehicle right there in jungle with no one to take care of.

looks insane, this is where we parked our bike for next 24 hrs

From here onwards, begins the absolute test of endurance, in fact, your entire persona. The very first step we took forward had this question “this doesn’t seems to be a trek, has anybody ever walked on this terrain?”
For Sanjay it was horrifying as this was his first trekking in the Himalayas. For me, what else I could have wished at just 370 kms from home. We kept walking on this hard to distinguish trek.  You can see some abandoned huts probably made by shepherds, for temporary halts or rain shelters. After we covered walking nearly 1.5 kms, we saw a dark figure approaching towards us. Fear on our mind, we questioned ourselves, is that a Beer. We stood still and as the creature came close enough we were relieved to see that this was a Bhutia dog. Believe me, besides their terrifying looks, these dogs are highly loveable and cute and may prove to be a great companion in jungle. He was tired like us and we, now three, took rest under a tree. You can easily figure out which tree have mentioned here, because this is the only big relief that comes within 2km from the beginning of trek. At next 400 meters, we met Pradeep, working on a project. They plan to built a Goat farm and a guest house that may take another year and to be ready by mid 2016.

I thought this is a tea stall and we can have something to eat. It is not. :(


At first, I thought that this must be a tea stall and we could have something to eat, but it wasn’t as mentioned above. Nevertheless, Pradeep offered us tea and we thanked him. He told us that Naag Tibba base camp is around 5 kms from here, hence we moved forward. We also saw some porters coming from base camp and they assured us to provide food services once they come back in the evening. Thanks to them as we did not bring anything to eat.
One thing I would like to share, although Naag Tibba is just 370 kms from Delhi, this is neither a weekend destination nor and easy trek. 2 days makes it very hectic, You need at least 3 days to enjoy the trip and chances of being lost in jungle are high on this trek. I would recommend to keep something handy to mark your path while you trek towards Naag Tibba as this will certainly help you to get down quickly to your parked vehicle.   

no traces of any track or direction. Only wild guess is that we have to keep moving uphill. 


While walking towards the base camp, the trail used to disappear at times, we just had  a wild guess in hand. After having walked for around 2 hours, we did not see any living being and were worried about being lost in the jungle. Sanjay said “Bhai yeh rasta thik to hai, kahin hum galat to nhi jaa rahe, andhera bhi hone wala hai, yahin kahinjagah dekh k tent laga lete hain. Koi banda dikh jaye to confirm ho jayega k hum sahi jaa rahe hain.”
(Are we moving in the right direction, its almost dark, lets find a place right here and mount our tent instead of keep moving. We can confirm the right direction/path if somehow somebody shows up. )
In this sense, Naag Tibba is a must do for those who want to taste the thrill of being lost in jungle provided you do not take a guide with you. However,  guide is must post the base camp to the Naag Tibba Peak.

Finally, we heard some voices, this was a group from Delhi. They took the other way round the ………….. which is around 14 km trek. We pitched our tent some 100 meters from the group as I did not want any city like party over here.

Quechua T2 tent in its full bliss!


Temperature was 1-2 degree C and we were comfortable inside our tent. Thanks to Quechua for making such an easy to mount and useful, lightweight two person tent at an affordable price of only INR2300/-

experience the Pitch black in jungle and..  Yes, it has ample room for two!

it also has pockets at corners for quick access for Torch, mobile etc.


We woke up at around 8:30 am and disappointed to see that it was raining and we cannot do the Naag Tibba peak. Nevertheless, we went to visit Naag Devta temple and then packed our tent to trek down to our parked bike.


Good Morning!


Nag Devta temple, Naag Tibba


To be the least fortunate moment, we could not find a trail and were lost in the jungle. We were supposed to find a trek that leads downhill, but, the only trek we could see was uphill into the jungle. We kept walking on it in a hope to find someone and ask for the right direction. After half an hour, we saw a meadow and were able to zero out that we never came across this place while going upward.




Hence, we turned back to for that half an hour again. Fortunately, after around 40 minutes, we saw a villager and asked him if he has seen a bike parked nearby. Bingo! He told us its just few minutes away from here. Thanks to the villager God. We reached where we parked our bike and had a rest for around 20 minutes. Now, time to head back to Delhi. We left at 3:30 pm and were home at 1:30 am.
                                                                            
at Ponta Saheb way back to home
       
My suggestion for Naag Tibba, do not exceed the number of people by 4 if you plan to visit and experience the taste of this wilderness/jungle.

Keep travelling.!!